La mia, più che una vita, è stata un’odissea. A 40 anni mi imbarcai su un cargo che batteva bandiera brasiliana e che, navigando da Belem sul Rio delle Amazzoni, si inoltrava nella foresta Amazzonica. Solo più tardi ho capito cosa trasportava: mele. In effetti poco prima di scendere sono andato a curiosare nella stiva ed era pieno di casse di mele.
A parte un po’ di disagi dovuti al dormire sull’amaca insieme ad altre cento persone nel sottoponte, il viaggio è stato davvero straordinario e quando, dopo più di tre giorni, sono giunto a destinazione a Santarem mi è quasi dispiaciuto dover lasciare la nave. Il fatto è che si attraversano scenari spettacolari. Già durante la prima notte sono stato preso da tutto il fascino del fiume, della foresta, delle luci di piccoli villaggi sulla costa e delle casette su palafitte, sparse qua e là, misteriose, con lucette fioche davanti al muro nero della foresta.
Il giorno dopo, poi, non mi sono stancato un attimo di contemplare gli scenari alla “Cuore di tenebra”, con la vegetazione fittissima che cade a strapiombo sull’acqua marrone. In alcuni tratti è straordinariamente largo, è incredibile vedere quanta acqua spinge verso il mare. In altri punti si attraversano arcipelaghi di isolette e si entra in lunghi corridoi in mezzo alla foresta. A volte si vedono i delfini d’acqua dolce.
Un’altra cosa curiosa sono i bambini che vengono con la canoa dalle loro casette a salutare la barca che passa. Alcuni di loro piccolissimi, già a sei – sette anni si avventurano da soli sulla canoa, e in effetti in quel contesto saperne guidare una è importante quasi come saper camminare. Altre volte invece sono le mamme che portano i piccoli a vedere il battello da vicino.
Comunque, mai visto un fiume così grande, e infatti è il più grande. Allora una domanda sorge spontanea: ma come è possibile che con tutta l’acqua che questo e gli altri fiumi del mondo sversano da sempre nel mare, questo rimane costantemente salato?? Cercherò la risposta su google.
Insomma, un’esperienza piacevolissima, che comunque rifarò presto per andare a Manaus e in seguito da lì verso l’Ecuador, anche se quest’ultimo tratto pare non sia così semplice come sembrerebbe guardando la mappa.
La guida Lonely Planet descrive queste traversate in maniera molto più dura di quello che sono, alla fin fine non c’era afa, né zanzare, né puzza e, a parte un po’ il disagio di dormire sull’amaca, l’unico problema è stato il cibo perché un violento acquazzone a Belem mi aveva impedito di fare la spesa prima di imbarcarmi e, essendo vegetariano, l’unica scelta possibile una volta sopra erano i toast al formaggio che però, per qualche motivo, facevano abbastanza schifo ed erano molto costosi pure. Per fortuna, quando la mattina dopo abbiamo fatto scalo a Breves, un ragazzino dal porto mi ha venduto al volo al volo due sfilatini di pane che mi sono bastati per il resto del viaggio.
Giunto a Santarem ho preso al volo al volo un bus per Alter do Chao, dove mi trovo ora. E’ un piccolo villaggio sul fiume dove non c’è molto da fare e forse proprio per questo è il posto giusto per riposarsi un po’ prima di ripartire.
Barche a Belem, da sempre il porto principale verso l’Amazzonia.
Il groviglio di amache nel sottoponte dove ho dormito tre notti.
Il Rio delle Amazzoni.
Una canoa.
Capanna.
Una barca come la nostra.
Ragazzi in canoa vengono a salutare.
Durante il viaggio ho conosciuto Eva, una dottoressa tedesca. Qui insegna il flauto ai bambini.
Una barca.
“Ma kill nunn è dekaro??” “M par e sì” “Fotografiamolo!”
“Idioti, non lo vedete che c’è Dekaro?!”
Il fiume.
Ed eccomi lì sulla mia amaca!
Capanna sul fiume.
Casetta.
Ragazzo sulla canoa.
Altra casa.
Controluce.
Amazing Amazzonia
Al tramonto.
Crepuscolo
Nuvoloni
E queste erano le foto. Ah, d’ora in poi chiamatemi pure Dekaro Geographic, non mi offendo. 
Lala vince clamorosamente di nuovo il “miglior commento”, essendo l’unico! E però pure voi, se ci siete battete un commento, non siate timidi, don’t be shy! 
bellissimo.
cmq per te il viaggio non è stato caratterizzato dalla puzza, ma non hai chiesto ai tuoi vicini di amaca. forse ti avrebbero parlato di una persistente puzza di formaggio!
Come tuo visagista auto-proclamatomi credo sia giunto il momento di farti crescere una barba che ti doni carisma e sintomatico mistero.
ciao!
Se rinasco, voglio essere te.
Caro Giovanni Geographic, se non ti dispiace pubblicherò due/tre delle tue splendide “cartoline” sul blog Antologia di Art’Empori. Dovresti proporle a qualche editore come White Star. Oppure dovresti affidarle a una agenzia fotografica che veicola foto a chi realizza cataloghi e riviste.
Alessio Masone
Dekà ha funzionato il richiamo all’ordine per i commenti! Cmq…che belloooo! e foto stupende.
Caro Dekaro (mi si perdoni la confidenza e l’uso della K!),
i tuoi sono, in fondo in fondo, i viaggi di tutti noi. I viaggi che noi, poveri mortali, vorremmo fare.
Suerte!
giovannino bello, leggerti ha risvegliato in me dei ricordi sopiti………….feci la stessa traversata a marzo del 2010 facendo tappa a Santarem e riposandomi per 3 giorni proprio ad Alter do Chao, per poi proseguire, sempre su battello per Manaus. Faccio una costatazione, nella tua descrizione non hai parlato del cielo di notte. Incredibile e difficile da descrivere la vicinanza, il chiarore e la nitidezza della miriade di stelle che semplicemente alzando gli occhi puoi vedere. Non mi stancavo mai di guardarle, ho passato ore con gli occhi rivolti al cielo per vedere questo incredibile spettacolo.
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